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PRUNING GET
ON TARGET WITH A PROPER PRUNING CUT Alex
Shigo conducted research on the proper pruning of trees for over a quarter of a
century while working for the United States Forestry Service.
Approximately 10 years ago I was privileged to attend a seminar conducted
by Mr. Shigo as well as to meet this plantsman at the Royal Botanical Gardens in
Hamilton, Ontario. Through his research conducted on over 15,000 trees in order
to determine the effect of proper or improper cuts in tree physiology, he came
up with a pruning guide for branch removals. Flush
cuts were out
Target
Pruning was in! While I must
admit there was some initial skepticism on my part, this initial apprehension
quickly gave way to Shigos recommendations. From
that initial seminar several years ago to the present day, there is ample
evidence to support the fact that improved education and training is still
required for some individuals responsible for pruning operations as well as
those supervisors responsible for forestry maintenance practices.
Specifications for planting appropriate trees under power lines and along
municipal roads also need to be carefully reviewed.
At
the provincial, regional and local levels of government, pruning activities
still need considerable improvement. Specifications in many cases need to be
upgraded for line clearing practices as well as urban forestry activities. These
kinds of cuts as shown in the accompanying photo will eventually dry out and
provide an ideal environment for decay organisms which weaken the tree and
ultimately reduces its life expectancy.
The swollen branch collar is not a stub and should not be flush pruned.
In
this case, an excavator did some side limbing on a roadside tree.
Structurally, the tree has been weakened and its appearance has been
ruined forever. Branch
collars vary in size in the same tree and a proper pruning cut is based on the
actual angle of the collar.
Cut
the living branch as close as possible to the branch collar.
This may involve 3 cuts depending on the size of the branch that is being
removed. To
avoid tearing the bark, oftentimes a drop cut is made.
In this case, the initial cut is made on the underside of the branch
approximately 12 to 18 inches out from the trunk.
This cut should be made with a sharp pruning saw until the saw starts to
lightly bind. Depending on the size
of the branch, the second cut is made from 2 to 6 inches out from the initial
cut on the upper side of the branch. The
final cut is made as close as possible to the branch collar.
Painting
the wound is not necessary as there is ample evidence to suggest that tree wound
dressings provide an ideal environment for microorganisms under the surface
which facilitates rot fungi. Previous
practices such as painting wounds or making a flush cut to facilitate proper
healing of a cut are old technical facts that need to be set aside and replaced
with proven up to date research. |
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